Swiss Roll with Pink Prawn Filling
– starter that everybody remembers
In our family, this savoury roll makes frequent appearances during the summer months. There is something about the contrast between the delicate pink prawn filling, the light golden sponge and a simple green salad that feels perfectly suited to a leisurely Sunday lunch by the sea.
There is no denying that this recipe involves several steps, particularly if you are making the prawn filling, which is based on a classic French béchamel sauce. That said, I have included a few simpler alternatives in the tips, all of which work equally well in terms of flavour and visual appeal.
Seasonal associations aside, this savoury roll makes an elegant starter for a dinner with friends or any special celebration throughout the year. With the festive season approaching, it can also provide a welcome alternative to the seafood starters that so often appear on Portuguese and British Christmas tables.
Why not give it a try and bring a little colour to your next gathering?
Serves 4
Ingredients
This is one of the family recipes that still uses cup measurements. For convenience, I have included approximate metric equivalents.
Filling
10 large, cooked prawns (30/40 size), with heads and shells on – this is critical
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon plain flour
2 cups of milk (or 500 ml) – you may not need all the milk
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Swiss Roll Sponge
3 Medium or large eggs, separated
1 cup self-raising white flour (approximately 125 gr; or plain flour a a teaspoon of baking powder)
1 cup milk (250 ml)
A pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper each
Optional: a pinch of cream of tartar to help stabilise the egg whites
Optional to serve: rocket or salad leaves, drizzled with olive oil and vinegar
Equipment
Filling
Blender
2 medium mixing bowls
Fine sieve
Spatula
1 medium saucepan
Wooden spoon
Sponge
2 Medium to large mixing bowls
Electric mixer
Spatula
20cm × 30cm Swiss roll tin (or similar shallow baking tray) lined with baking parchment
Clean tea towel
Method
For the prawn filling – the filling needs time to cool to room temperature, so start with it. See tips for other simpler fillings.
1. Peel the prawns, reserving the heads and shells. Remove and discard the intestinal vein if not done already by your fishmonger. Cut the peeled prawns into small pieces so that the filling can be easily eaten with a fork. In most cases, cutting each prawn into 3 or 4 pieces is sufficient.
2. Place the prawn heads and shells in the blender together with the 250 ml of milk. Blend until the liquid takes on a salmon-pink colour and the shells are finely broken down. Depending on the size of your blender, you may need to do this in batches. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve into a bowl, pressing firmly with a spatula to extract as much flavourful liquid as possible. Discard the shells.
3. In a clean saucepan, melt the butter over a medium heat (setting 5 out 9 for an induction or electric hob). Once the butter has melted but has not taken colour, stir in the flour using a wooden spoon. There should be just enough butter to fully incorporate the flour into a smooth paste. Cook while stirring for 2-3 minutes to avoid having a floury taste in the final filling.
4. Lower the heat to low (2 or 3 out of 9). Gradually pour in the prawn-infused milk, stirring well after each addition. Continue cooking until the filling reaches the consistency of a thick béchamel or very thick custard. You may need to add extra milk to achieve the desired texture and enough quantity to cover the entire roll. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then fold in the chopped prawns.
5. Allow the filling to room temperature before using (or store in the fridge for a later use). It is now ready to spread over the savoury roll sponge.
For the Swiss roll sponge
1. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 170°C fan or 190°C conventional.
2. To save washing the whisk attachments, begin by whipping the whites in the large bowl until they form stiff peaks. You might add the cream of tartar. In a separate bowl, place all other base ingredients and whisk until you have a smooth batter. Gently fold the egg whites into the batter, taking care not to lose too much volume.
3. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin and bake for 15-20 minutes, or until lightly golden brown and springy to the touch.
4. While still warm, flip the sponge to the tea towel, and remove the parchment. Spread the filling evenly on the sponge. Carefully roll the sponge up, starting from one of the shorter sides, and using the tea towel to help shape it.
5. Leave to cool to room temperature while wrapped in the tea towel. For a starter, serve two finger-thin slices per person alongside a lightly dressed green salad.
Tips
This savoury roll works particularly well with fillings that provide a contrast in colour when sliced. One of my favourite alternatives is a combination of ricotta and wilted spinach, whose green filling looks particularly attractive against the golden sponge.
For an option that requires no cooking at all, try cream cheese and smoked salmon. It is wonderfully simple, yet elegant enough to serve as a starter when entertaining guests.
If rolling the sponge around the filling feels a little daunting, try rolling it without the filling first, but still with the help of the tea towel. Leave it for 10-15 minutes to cool slightly, then carefully unroll it, spread over the filling and roll it up again. This helps the sponge develop its shape and reduces the risk of cracking.